This paper focuses on the anti-ageing properties of retinoids and how long patients have to use them before seeing an improvement. To learn more about this topic, including different types of retinoids and their effects, we encourage you to download the full paper.

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are a family of compounds that include vitamin A and its derivatives. They form the basis of a multi-billion pound industry in skin creams with anti-ageing properties. The major effect of retinoids is that they reduce fine wrinkles. They also promote keratinocyte proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, reduce transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation, and inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases. Other positive effects of retinoids include a proliferation of blood vessels, which improves skin colour, fading of lentigo, and an improvement in rough patches of skin.

Different Types of Retinoids

• Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): There is a significant body of evidence demonstrating the anti-ageing properties of tretinoin. It has been shown to rejuvenate the epidermis, treat photo-ageing and dyspigmentation, thicken the epidermis, increase collagen production, and flatten the stratum corneum. The standard dose is 0.05%, and it can take at least three months to see an effect, with significant improvements in the dermis at 12 months.
• Retinol: Retinol is a precursor of retinoic acid and has also been shown to have anti-ageing effects. It is 20 times less potent than tretinoin but has been shown to have better effects at similar doses and is less irritating. A problem with retinol is that it is unstable in UV light and high temperatures.
• Retinyl Esters: These are often used in “cosmeceutical products”. They are very stable but need to be converted to retinol and then retinoic acid in the skin, which makes them less effective as anti-ageing preparations. They take longer to work and show less dramatic improvements.
• Adapalene: This is the only retinoid currently available on NHS prescription. One study showed that adapalene was comparable to tretinoin 0.05% for anti-ageing. It is less irritating than many other preparations and may prove useful.

Download the full paper on retinoids for skin ageing to learn more.